Woody Allen does Monti

I knew Woody Allen was filming in Rome, but I did not expect to bump into him on my way to coffee. Here he is, in our Piazzetta, directing the Rome Decameron.

10 things I want to do in Rome

1- See my family. I have missed them terribly since I moved to England

2- See my friends: work friends, play friends, food friends..everyone I have not seen since March

3- Go to Sperlonga, or Sabaudia. The lovely beaches of Italy are a must in the Summer, and if I cannot make it to Sardegna this time around, at least I can chill in Sperlonga!

4- Gelati: both Daniel Gelo - with their coconut, mandarino and watermelon flavors, but also Ciampini with fragoline and panna.
(I am salivating just thinking about it)

5-Giacomo: Al Vino Al Vino, la caponata, sitting by the courtyard sipping a glass of Bisol and eating the figs that Giacomo brings us (yes, I am spoiled!)

6-Caffe: shakerato, al vetro, con un goccio di latte. I am so excited at the idea of paying 80 cents for an amazing coffee, I cannot wait.

7- Rome: I miss walking around my city. Taking in the beauty and chaos, the dirt and magnificence of Rome. I heart my city, even when it's 40C

8- Shop: Monti, Testaccio and via del Babbuino..I shall shop and be merry!

9-La parlata Romana: believe it or not, I miss hearing some of the typical Roman expressions, the jokes that only a Roman would do and understand.

10- Water: drinking fountains everywhere and perfectly sparkling water easily available. Now, that's luxury!

Only 1 week to go!

Shopping in Rome - for a good cause-2

Here is our stand. Our day was very successful and we raised 504 Euro for Behbud.



Thank you Katie, Arlene, Jessica, Elizabeth and everyone else who came by and gave us support!

On Al Jazeera

I come up around minute 1:30..

Notte Bianca- White Night

Budget cuts and lack of interest for cultural events led our Mayor to the final decision of not continuing the Notte Bianca. The event was a great opportunity for Romans and other visitors alike to "regain possession" of the city.
This year a few independent organizations have decided to continue the tradition of Notte Bianca, even without the funding from the comune.
In particular the X municipality (area Cinecitta) has organized a series of events. One of them will see my wonderful cousin- TW- serving wine and being merry.

If you are here next weekend ( Sept 12-13) you should come along. Here is the flyer:

Things I love in the Summer

This summer I have managed to spend one whole month in Rome.
It's hot, it's very hot, and sometimes I regret being here, but most of the times, I love the fact that I can enjoy the city in this incredible light, and calm, and ride around with my bike and feel like the queen of a deserted city.

Here are the things I love to do:

Get a drink on the roof terrace of the of the Es Hotel or of the Hotel st George

Drive to the beach right after work and catch the sunset in Ostia

Sit in the park in the Colle Oppio and get a coffee at the little stall that is there, while watching dogs splash in the nearby fountain

Go hunting for open markets. The fruit in August is incredible, from the first figs to the perfectly ripe plums and peaches, the last watermelons ..and everything seems to be half price

Enjoy the quietness of the street, certain neighborhoods just simply empty out making excursions to see them a real treat.

Visit museums. Museums and sites ARE open all summer long, and they are free from crowds, so a visit to that place you have been planning to go for ages , but have always postponed because of crowds actually becomes possible in August. Look at Musei D'Estate

Take a bite of Summer!

Summer Nights at Villa D'Este

Rome is full wonderful sites, from archaeological areas to the lovely piazzas and dramatically beautiful churches, but every once in a while it is nice to get out of the city and enjoy the breeze of the countryside.
So last friday Ms. A , her wonderful parents and I hopped on Mimu's super car (there is very little super about it) and headed out to Tivoli's Villa D'Este. For the summer, the 16th century mansion of the exiled cardinal Ippolito d'Este is open late at night on fridays and saturdays.

I had visited Tivoli before, during the day, but I had never experienced such fantastic experience! The night visit really allows you to fully enjoy the magic of this place, with the fountains on and the water organ playing. I felt like I had been transported back in time to the 16oos!

Needless to say, the lovely parents had packed a delicious picnic that we sneaked into the villa (without authorization) and enjoyed while looking at the fountains.

For more info: http://www.villadestetivoli.info/

The beauty of Rome

A few days ago, while sipping prosecco and eating figs, I was reminded of the beauty of Rome.
We were with a group of friends, celebrating a happy moment and in front of us, was the most beautiful city in the world.


I know I am bias, I know I Rome has its defects, but when I looked out from the tarrace at Mr. P's house, I could not help but fall in love with my city again.

Black & white vs. Colors

Walking in around my favorite part of town I spotted these two characters. Both interesting and remarkable.
The man looked strangely elegant, yet odd. Maybe because of the stark contrast of black and white, or maybe because of the sweater that looked a bit too tight.

The woman, on the other had had gracefully paired some really bright colors, going along with the current fashion. She looked at ease and in a good mood, maybe because the colors were giving her positive vibes?

Both man and woman were in their 50s and I found it encouraging that people seem to gain a better sense of style with age.

Champions League Insanity

I wonder who had the brilliant idea of scheduling all Rome events in late May - early June to take place in around the Colosseum area.

On top of the usual early Summer tourist mob, these days we are experiencing true madness because of the Champions League (the Cup is displayed in the Champions village right by the Colosseum), the celebrations for June 2 (on via dei Fori Imperiali), a Bocelli concert (in the Colosseum) , the Rome Literature Festival (in the Basilica of Maxentius) and a new exibition of large sculptures by Costa Rican artis Jimenez Deredia (in the archaeological area).

Will we survive this madness? Will the archaeological heart of the city survive? Maybe I should ask the soccer fans..

Dresses, closets and shopping

The battle with Mr R on the food pantry- shoe closet continues and while most consequences of this war are negative (the house is a mess, my shoes are everywhere..) there is one positive aspect to it. I am rediscovering some of my long forgotten shoes. From Repetto, to Sergio Rossi, Giuseppe Zanotti, Borini, Church, Gucci, Prada, Ferragamo and the list goes on.

Changing shoes allows you to re-invent an outfit, make it sexy or sporty, elegant or casual.
I pulled out my dresses and started wearing them with heels, strap sandals, flat sandals and of course this led to more shopping, because some of the shoes really needed a new outfit to go with them:-)

So I purchased 3 dresses in 3 days (not good Petulia , not good): the first is a long black dress from Jucca , the second is a tailor made wrap dress a-la DVF, the third (just picked up) is from a local boutique called Le Gallinelle. Le Gallinelle (the chicks) is a wonderful space where Wilma Silvestri and her two daughters create clothes for women and men who love fashion but can go beyond the big names.

Le Gallinelle is in a former butcher shop, and still today you can see the barble counter where the poultry and meat were sold. Today, Le Gallinelle is a hip stop for Romans and foreigners alike...I am still hoping to bump into John Galliano who is rumored to be an admirer of Wilma's style!

Doggie on a bike

This morning, on our way to get a coffee Mr R and I bumped into this perfect photo opportunity.
I am sure my friends Jessica and Katie would have probably done a better job and photographing the little dog, but for now we'll have to cope with my first attempt at manual setting.
In the end, this is much better than my previous dog picture attempts in NY or Paris. I only wish I could draw like Jess and my dog love would be complete..well, I guess I should also own a dog (but that's a different chapter of my life!)

Back on two wheels (questions and observations about cycling)

My poor bike was parked outside for almost 4 months, during the rainiest Roman winter ever.
A couple of days ago I decided to pick it up and get it back in running shape. I took her (my bike is definitely of female gender) to the garage.

After a change of tire and and a few minor touch ups (get rid of rust, straighten the handle bar) we were on the road. Rolling down the viale Aventino, heading towards Piramide and via Ostiense I was reminded of the beauty of Rome, of the smell of summer and the craziness of my fellow users of the road.

On the same day I was approached by the friends at Bici Roma, and by a group of urban cyclists organizing an event in Garbatella.
On my way home (you can see my daily route here) I saw many other cyclists, of all ages and styles..and of course the question came to mind: what is the best gear to wear when cycling in town?
How can I get to work by bike and not look like I just got back from a war in a tropical country?
I like to wear dresses , so that my calves are free and can tan a bit, but I run the risk of flashing the whole town..
I shall find a solution soon, before the full Summer heat arrives. In the meantime, I foudn this interesting article on the Times

Pizza..and a new Enoteca

Garbatella is a beauty, and so is pizza...this was served to us along with delicious organic wine from Abruzzo in the new Enoteca 13 gradi:

Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 4
Monday 4PM-9PM
da Tuesday Sunday 10-1PM e 4PM-9PM
tel 06 83601573

at the beach

Ostia is the local beach of Rome. It's only 20 minutes by local train. It's close to the archaeological site of Ostia Antica and for me it's the perfect getaway from the busy streets of Rome.

I am amazed by how quickly the scenario changes, the atmosphere is more relaxed, the air cleaner. I particularly enjoy going to Ostia during the off season, in May for example, when the beach is not crowded and you can walk around catching the breeze and maybe stopping for some fresh fish..

Here are some pics:

pretty in pink

Once in a while, walking around Rome, I am reminded of the subtle beauty of this city. After a rainy day, when the sky clears up and the clouds go away leaving mixed colors above us. The sky turns into a canvas of pinks, blues, whites framed by the lovely building of the historic center.

That's when I fall in love with Rome again.

In one of those days, on via del Babuino, I stumbled upon this very elegant man. Very much aware of his looks and style, he almost seemed to pose for me- the normally sneaky photographer. I like his loafers..very possibly Tod's and the pink trousers + shirt..almost pj like. The black blazer and the shopper from Caffe' Greco complete the look.

Good Fashion in Rome

On my way to the Gran Caffe' Caffettiera in Piazza di Pietra, I stopped to enjoy the view of the city on its first spring day.
This couple waiting outside the beautiful church of S. Ignazio di Loyola. This piazza is one of my favorite in Rome, it really gives the sense of the theatricality of baroque architecture. Everything is a theater, and we are all on stage.


The couple was at the center of my stage...and thankfully they were well dressed! A Chanel bag, Repetto flats, Clark's desert boot and a stylish stroller for the baby go a long way!

Fur and makeup

I was going to write up something about what I keep in my bag..and the ridiculous amount of money I spend of cosmetics.

I was partially inspired by Maria's brilliant blog Lipstick Masala and the great advice she gives ( I only wish she had started writing before I bought all the make up I have). But during one of my excursions today two things steered me off the subject of makeup :

1- I bought more make up, so I could not think critically about it
2- I bumped into a wedding party, in a church in the center of Rome, and saw this:



I am not against fur..but this creeped me out a bit. First of all it was very warm, and definitely not fur whether. Secondly, I am not sure I love seeing the legs (and head) of the poor animal.

What do you think?

I am on the radio...but it's a long interview

A few weeks ago, while I was in NY I was asked to give an interview for a fun travel radio station called Travel Radio Show. The interview was fun and easy, so much so that I completely forgot about it, until today when I found the information on the internet.

You can listen to this painfully long (but informative) interview here

http://tribecaradio.net/wpradioblog/letstravel/lets-travel-show-97/

And read some of the ideas and suggestions from it, here:

http://www.letstravelradio.com/thisweek/

My Rome List- Accommodation

As Spring approaches, the number of friends coming to visit in Rome increases.
I love being the point of reference for many people, but often I find myself not having much time to compile a personalized list of fav places for everyone that asks. So here is my general list, applicable to all. If you have questions of want to personalize the list, drop me a line or a comment:
Accommodation:

Grand Hotel La Minerve: expensive and beautiful, with a great location right behind the Pantheon. This hotel also has a great roof terrace bar

Casa Howard: I had the chance to meet the owners once, and immediately I realized the genius behind the place. Each room is different, and each one is beautiful. Here you will feel like a noble living in your own Roman palazzo.

Hotel Locarno: hip and at the same time quietly old school. Right by Piazza del popolo. I like the fact that they have bycicles available for guests to use.

Ferragamo Portrait Suites: only 14 rooms (or a few more) but each one "dressed to the nines" in full Ferragamo syle. This boutique (literally) hotel is right by the shop in via Condotti: shop and sleep. The concierce service here is incredible and so is the rooftop with American bar.

Nicola's Inn:around the corner from our office, right by the Forum, this is a great B&B that mixes Italian hospitality with American efficiency. The owners are an Italian-American couple residing in Rome. Rooms are spic and span clean, a bit spartan but great value for price

Hotel Il Grifo: In the heart of Monti, small old school hotel. The location is great, the staff friendly and in general the feel of it is good.

The Beehive: perfect if you are on a budget. It reinvents the whole concept of hostel and budget hotel making you forget of all you bad back packing experience. The owners are Americans living in Rome and they have made their budget hotel a little oasis in the area around the station

My apartment: this is for my friends. You can always crash on our sofa..just don't touch Mr. R's books:-)