Sonya in the house

Not many people enter and exit the fashion world as smoothly as Sonya Rykiel.
She started by chance, 40 years ago, a young woman married to the owner of a clothing shop. Sonya started creating clothes for herself when she got pregnant, because she was having difficulties finding decent sweaters for her and her newborn. So she started with knitting, and designing knits. 40 years later, she

She is an icon of elegant French women, she represents style and normality and ultimately she demonstrated how people in the fashion world can be intelligent and discreet instead of showy and exaggerated.

Paris is celebrating Sonya's 40 years of activity in every possible way. Les Arts Decoratifs is hosting an exhibition about the designer's work, Rykiel's last fashion show was a true party and finally all windows of Rykiel's boutiques in Paris display fun and blingy items.
Here is a little show

Walking in the cold

A is here! So fun to have friends visiting me.
This morning we went for a great run along the river and Jardin des Plantes. This is by far my favorite park in Paris, not as chic as the Tuileries but with a more authentic feel to it. It's not the place where you meet the people featured in the sartorialist blog, but tt's the perfect park for running, taking a romantic stroll or just simply be. I am looking forward to taking my niece here during the weekend. She is going to go crazy!

After our run- and a generous breakfast- we headed towards the upper Marais. One of our food docents had suggested the area around Rue Charlot and rue Bretagne for fantastic window shopping and supposetly a super chocolatier.
We walked in the cold for about 2 hours, enjoyed this lesser known part of the BoBo neighborhood and actually found some great spots. Among others, we popped into the marche' des Enfants-Rouges. The market takes the name from an Orphan house located nearby where children wore a red uniform.
A and I had just started to be peckish (surprise?) so we took advantage of a lovely Bio stand/ restaurant. We had a gallette made of a weird mix of quinoa, veggies and..something else.
It was cooked on a proper crepes machine and it tasted heavenly..not quite a Thanksgiving meal but definitely delicious..Have a happy Thanksgiving. And thank you to all my friends for being such a special part of my life!

Laotian Food- The Best food

As promised, here are some pictures from out Laotian night. This, along with Laduree is my #1 stop when I come to Paris.
Located in the 13th arr., this Thai-Laotian join is a popular spot for locals, up to the point that arriving after 8PM automatically means standing in line for a while.
I was introduced to this restaurant a few years ago by David Lebowitz , we met there for dinner with some friends. David suggested a bunch of different dishes, but I remember him ordering the crunchy rice salad. This particular dish comes with leaves that range from lettuce to mint served on the side.
Since then, I have been a regular of this restaurant. I have taken my mom and dad, Mr. R, Katie, and anyone else who was in town and up for some good Asian food.

I went back not long ago, and along with the crunchy rice salad, I tried a delicious spicy basil duck dish and a chicken- coconut soup. Everything was delicious!

A. is coming to Paris today..so another guest to share Laotian delish with! Yupppeee


The restaurant is called Lao Lane Xang & Houng Lan
105 Avenue d'Ivry
75013 Paris
No reservations- closed on monday
Metro is Tolbiac

When it's cold outside..

I like to complain. I like to say that I miss the sun and the light of Rome, my mom's delicious food and my friends.
But then, I realize that I cannot complain. Spending six months a year in Paris is a treat, rather than an imposition. Being here for a "short" time allows me to always discover new things and look at the city with the eyes of a new comer. At the same time, living here for long stretches of time is perfect for feeling and home and becoming a "regular"in a restaurant.

Well, for the first time today, after almost 1 year of going to the same boulangerie I had a smile from the woman who works there. She was polite as usual, but also added a genuine smile when Mr. R insisted for a third rose de sable. Life is good when things like this happen.

Another pick me up in rainy cold days, is a cup of tea with Laduree macarons. We are slightly obsessed with these delicious, colorful mini dessert. Maybe because they come in lovely boxes, or maybe because they are gluten free, or simply because they are the perfect size for a dessert, every time we walk past one of the many Laduree spots in Paris we make sure to pick up a little box of 8 macarons.
Favorite fravors are: coffee, caramel, rose and violet.

New Ralph Lauren to open in Paris

In the heart of the most exclusive arrondissement of Paris, Ralph Lauren is opening up what seems to be a massive flagship store.
The opening date for the boutique is Blvd. St. Germain is 2009. So far, only a huge blue cover up hides the facade of what will be the RL headquarter in Paris.

It's snowing in Paris

I made the flake using http://snowflakes.barkleyus.com/
I will venture outside to try and get some pictures..brrr

A Circus in Paris

Last summer I bought a dress from Paraphernalia , one of my fav shops in Rome. Paraphernalia is of those shops where you wish you could fit into everything, and be able to afford everything.
The dress was extremely colorful, strangely shaped and a bit clown like, but I absolutely loved it. I wore it with heels, flats, jeans,leggings or solo. It came with me to NY, Pakistan, London, Paris and my beach trips. It was that kind of strangely perfect dress you can glam up or just wear it as it is, and it still looks great.The dress is from a French label called Circus & Co.

Considering the price of the dress, and the uncommon brand, I was resigned to wait until the next sales at Paraphernalia before buying another one, but instead...The Circus came to me!
I was walking around the 4th arr the other day, and as I turned the corner in one of the streets by my apartment what did I see? The showroom for Circus & Co. ! I walked in like a drunk in a liquor store, or a kid in a candy store and I tried on everything. Dresses were 65 Euro, Sweaters and tops from 25 to 45, coats 85..It was a dream come true!

I am happy, with two new dresses and a couple of sweaters..my wallet? Not so happy:-)

If you are in Paris
Circus &Co
12 Rue Beautreillis- Paris 4eme
(metro St. Paul)

How much is that doggie in the window?

So the songs goes..but I have never heard this song before, so I have to go on trust.

Every time I leave the apartment in Paris I pass this small upholstery shop. It's tiny but very well kept, I take it that they fix and do most of the sofas and armchairs in my lovely neighborhood.
Apart from being an interesting joint per se, the upholster shop is also home to this Jackrussell.
I haven't familiarized with him yet, as he is mostly sitting on an armchair behind a glass. But this time he came close to the window, almost willing to "chat" while I tried to take a picture.

If you look closely you can see me and part of Mr. R trying to sweet talk doggie, singing "how much is that doggie in the window...

Fashion and Art- grown ups or kids?

Paris is a great place for art, fashion and kids. You can find fabulous contemporary art, great boutiques and parks where children can play and run safely. All of this is particularly concentrated in certain neighborhoods, like the 6th arr. Here, we find stylish moms with their last YSL purchase strolling child in hand, towards the Jardin du Luxemburg and popping into an art gallery on the way.
Well, exactly in this neighborhood, I took these 2 pictures. They are two windows very close to each other. One in the shop where I hope I will buy clothes for my future children, the other is an up and coming contemporary art gallery. Which is which??
P.S.Notice how appealing contemporary art (shaped in the form of bright dogs) it is to kids!

Sunday food

I love waking up late on a cold sunday morning and slowly starting the day with breakfast and the FT.
This weekend K is visiting, she is as much of a food lover as Mr. R and I..so following the lazy breakfast and the FT reading, we all headed to the Bastille market for a little shopping and a bit of food. We walked back and forth the lovely market, plenty of people planning for their sunday meal and buying accordingly.
We got three different kinds of cheese (one goat, one cow and one sheep), meat roulades (with dried figs and bacon), fruit vegetables, and potatoes for the roast.
As we strolled back, we noticed a small stand selling churros (or chichis).
The seller had an ingenious system figured out of mixing the dough, making into churros, frying the churros (about 14 at a time), picking them up, dipping them into the sugar and selling them.
He ran the shop by himself, in the neatest possible way. Not a drop of oil spilled, not a lump of dough fell on the floor. Nothing looked oily or greasy. Rather crunchy and sugary and churros should be.
Well, we could not resist. We had to get them. 6 chichis for 2 euros was the deal.

Curry and Thai

My friend K asked me what was the best thing I had since I moved to Paris. I had to think for a few minutes..
Being gluten intolerant prevents me from trying most of the delicious food in Paris (no croissants, no baguettes, no religiouse for me).
That said, the city of lights and buttery food still has a lot to offer.
Macaroons to name one, are entirely gluten free. And then there are snails, there is the meat, the cheese and so much more. All things that I make sure I have before going back to Rome.
This time around, I haven't yet had my favorite food, so to answer Katie's question I had to say, the best food since I got here last week has been Indian food in London.
We went to Rasa, a very pink, very good South Indian restaurant in Fitzrovia. Rasa was founded by Das Sreedharan in 1994 and is quickly became one of the top Indian restaurants in London developing into a small chain (9 locations in London) with a School of Home cooking and hospitality in Kerala.
Mr. R and I ordered each a feast. He opted for a Fish Feast and I went for the Vegetarian feast. Everything was delicious, spicy and served in a very pleasing manner.
My soup, appetizers and main dish were incredibly fresh and the flavors very vivid. The Uzhunappam was incredible. The best I have ever had.

So now it is time for Paris to step up and give me some real food. Where are we going tonight?
Laotian food in the 13th- I love it!

London days

I was gone for a few days:business trip to London.

Winter and Summer, Fall and Spring a day in London can have rain, sun, wind and fog. I feel like in 3 days I have experienced it all. We arrived on Monday morning and were welcomed by heavy showers and strong wind. 

By the time we left the sun had come out and we were almost sad to go back to Paris.

Mr. R and I had a great time, notwithstanding the constant struggle with London public transportation. We bought our favorite tea from Fortnum and Mason, did some Christmas shopping, had curry and walked in St. James Park. What else can you ask from a three day trip in London? Oh yes, we met our friends. It was lovely!

Christmas window at F&M

Minnesota and eating fruit

When I am in Paris, I try to eat as much fruit and veg as possible. Maybe it is the gray of the city or the fact that everyone seems to have a cold, but I feel the need to have my daily intake of Vitamin C. Luckily the Rue D'Aligre Market is just a few blocks from here, so I can refill the fruit bowl daily with French delicacies as well as North African ones. The market is famous for being a perfect mixture of French tradition with strong influences from Maghreb.
Yesterday I bought lots of grapefruits, and as I started eating my first half I had a Marcel Proust moment. I realized that the first time I had grapefruit like that (cut in half, with some sugar sprinkled on the juice and the pulp scooped up with a spoon) when I was in Minnesota. My American Mom introduced me to this lovely dessert 15 years ago. Crazy! This reminded me of all sorts of thing, including all the other discoveries I made during that one year in America ( I could have green hair, see snow in May, learn another language perfectly, feel at home in another country, etc )
These days we hear so much about the U.S. and it makes me realize how determinant the time between '93 and '94 was for me . It changed my life for ever (and made me love grapefruit!)

Fashion and Food

While my friend J is at the Fendi outlet doing some shopping (I hope you get some good stuff) I am perusing the windows of boutiques in Paris, looking for a new pair of shoes. I want them with a medium- high heel, black, not sure about patent leather or not, but no laces.
They have to be classy yet fun..I have poked into my usual stores, and even ventured to Martin Margiela but haven't found anything appealing yet.
What is a girl to do? Find refuge in some chocolate? And what if the chocolate comes in the shape of shoes??
These right here are 100% edible shoes, made of pure chocolate by one of the artisian chocolatier in the Marais..to eat or not to eat??

Paris Paris

I am back in Paris, this time for quite a while. I will be working a bit from our French office, eating delicious food and shopping more than I should, but hey, this is Paris to me.
I find this city strangely welcoming, even during the winter. I love the shops and the well dressed people. I feel at home, maybe because I can reinvent myself.
This morning I woke up (later than planned) and went to the market on Rue D'Aligre. The stands were colorful and inviting as always, notwithstanding the gray sky.
There were all sorts of grapes, cabbage (chou- I love the name) and mushrooms including a type called Trompette de la Mort ..when I saw them, I realized I had them with my pave' de beuf. Very yummy. I will try to take pics and keep you updated with my November discoveries...

Happy and hopeful

I have never seen such a big headline on the NYT. There is excitement everywhere and you can tell, the change is happening. A new energy is in the air.
I cannot say much, but I am happy, extremely happy and hopeful for the future and thankful for being a witness to this wonderful event.

Useful and Fun

Yesterday I saw an old friend I had not seen for at least 2 years. He and I have been in the same circles of English speaking Romans for a very long time (he is in fact half American half Italian) but for some reasons had lost touch.
It turns out GB has started a website/ newsletter aimed at all Italo-philes .
The site is called Italian Notebook and it is a collection of smart daily "notes" suggesting things to do, places to see, books to read.
In general, contributors are expats living in Italy and sharing their passions with others.

If you want to take a look: http://italiannotebook.com/

The Barney Crane

This should be filed under: weird things you see in the city.
I was walking to the metro this morning and I saw this crane. What does it remind you of?
Aren't these the colors of the beloved dinosaur ? Maybe they wanted to make sure no one would steal this crane, but then again, do people steal cranes?

Isola Tiberina- Nov 2

Sorry for the poor quality of the picture. I only had my phone- camera (or cameraphone) to take pictures with..

Every year, on Nov 2 the Isola Tiberina becomes a magical place, candle lit, full of mysticism.

On this date, the followers of the confraternity of the Sacconi Rossi (red capes) gather to celebrate and remember all people who died in the Tiber river. 

The confraternity was founded in the XVII cent., its role was that of "fishing" the bodies of people who had drowned in the river, or had been thrown in the river. The red capes (this is the name they were given because of their uniform) were also in charge of the burial of the bodies.

I attended this ceremony for the first time when I worked with National Geographic. I had not been back since, but today I decided to go. After a few days of rain today was perfect, the sky was clear and the light beautiful. My mom came along. I was beautiful, just like I remembered.

To read the article about Underground Rome: National Geographic